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源于自然的时尚

展览地点:深圳海上世界文化艺术中心一层主展馆

展览时间:2020年12月19日 - 2021年6月6日

Introduction text

前言


Fashioned from Nature explores the relationship between fashion an d nature from 1600 to the present day. The exhibits show the inspiration fashion draws from nature, but also highlight the harmful effects on the natural environment of the increasing scale of the clothing industry.

展览“源于自然的时尚”探索了17世纪至今时尚与自然之间的关系,呈现了时尚设计从大自然汲取灵感,但也聚焦于不断扩张的时尚产业对自然环境的破坏。


It asks two questions:

展览试图讨论这两个问题:

How can we design a more sustainable fashion industry?我们如何让时尚产业更可持续?

What can we learn from the past?我们从历史中吸取了什么经验?


This exhibition examines how clothing production has changed over time an d the challenges faced by all of us today – to create an d buy clothes that are beautiful an d responsible, an d to value our clothes more.

这场展览回顾了衣饰制造的历史变迁,探讨了我们每个人都须面对的两项挑战:创造与购买兼顾“美”与“责任”的时尚,并且更珍惜我们的衣饰。


Choose carefully: look good

精挑细选:赏心悦目

Wear wisely: feel good

明智穿着:心满意足

Recycle: be generous

循环利用:慷慨大度


绿色和平丝网印棉T恤,英国,20世纪90年代 ?英国V&A博物馆

Greenpeace printed cotton t-shirt, Britain, 1990s ? Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

半身裙与拖尾,法国或英国,1895-1905 ?英国V&A博物馆

Skirt an d train, France or Britain, c.1895-1905. ? Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

由葡萄皮革做的“葡萄”裙子 ?Vegea

Grape’ dress made with Vegea, a leather alternative made from grape waste. ? Vegea

男士丝制马甲,刺绣真丝猕猴图案,1780-89 ?英国V&A博物馆

Man’s silk waistcoat embroidered in silk with a pattern of macaque monkeys, 1780–89. ? Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

宫廷礼服(曼图亚式套裙),法国和英国,1760-65,修改于19世纪 ?英国V&A博物馆

Court Dress, France & Britain in 1760-65, alterations 19th century ? Victoria an d Albert Museum, London.

皮手套,英国,1600-25 ?英国V&A博物馆

Glove in leather, Britain, 1600-1625 ?Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

缎扇,英国,1880年前后 ?英国V&A博物馆

Fan of Fan, Britain, c. 1880 ? Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

裙装,英国,1868-9 ?英国V&A博物馆

Dress, Britain, 1868-9 ? Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

手包,法国,20世纪50年代初期,有机玻璃 ?英国V&A博物馆

Han dbag of perspex, France, early 1950s ?Victoria an d Albert Museum, London.

婚纱,英国,1807 ?英国V&A博物馆

Wedding dress, Britain,1807 ?Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

晚礼服,英国,1829年前后 ?英国V&A博物馆

Evening gown,Britain,about 1829 ?Victoria an d Albert Museum, London

披风,英国,1898年前后 ?英国V&A博物馆

Cape, Britain,c.1898 ?Victoria an d Albert Museum, London.

晚礼服,英国,1877年前后 ?英国V&A博物馆

Evening gown,Britain,about 1887 ?Victoria an d Albert Museum, London.

男士睡帽,英国,1600-25 ?英国V&A博物馆 Man's night cap,Britain,1600-25 ?Victoria an d Albert Museum, London.



FASHION FROM NATURE IN CHINA: THEN AN D NOW

《衣从万物:中国今昔时尚》


The rapid economic boom in China has reenergized the fashion industry. One eye is looking at the latest trends from International fashion centres; the other eye is examining local trends inspired by China’s rich histories.

‘Men farm, women weave’, is the saying used in Chinese history to symbolize a harmonious society. Reviving forgotten textile fibres an d weaving crafts is part of the new sustainable lifestyle.

Colouring textiles with plant dyes leads us to retrace historical practices while meeting modern needs. 

Patterns decorating textiles have long been symbols of blessings in Chinese culture. Digital machines today manipulate these images for new interpretations.

With social media providing endless inspirations, we all become our own alchemist, freely transforming old an d new elements to form our very own idea of ”nature”.

This exhibition retraces ‘nature’ in historic Chinese textiles an d costumes. Through materials, dyes an d patterns, we look at the ancient ‘natural’ world an d move on to our 21st century to reflect on the relationship between fashion an d nature today.


中国近年快速的经济繁荣为时装市场注入了活力。一只眼睛看着国际上的最新趋势,另一只眼睛则盯着中国悠久历史诱发的本地时尚。

古代社会的“男耕女织”象征着和谐社会。今天我们在可持续生活方式中,重新掘出被遗忘的纺织纤维和编织工艺。

植物染的潮流引领我们回到历史,了解前人的实践,又同时面对现代的需求。

中国历代纺织品的装饰充满着寓意图案,今天的数码机器为这些图像添加新的阐释。

社交媒体不停地滚动着无穷的灵感及资讯,我们每个人都成为了自己的炼金术士,自由地配搭新旧元素,建立我们自己的“自然”理念。

我们从历史中的中国服饰及纺织品探索“自然”。通过材料、色彩和图案,去了解祖先的“自然”世界,继而进入21世纪,反思当今时尚与自然之间的关系。


1. MATERIALS 材料

2. DYES 色彩

3. PATTERNS图案

4. FASHION IN THE 20TH AN D 21ST CENTURIES   20至21世纪的时尚


海水江崖九龙妆花缎龙袍(复制品),原物为清雍正帝(1678-1735)龙袍,2016,蚕丝,98%纯金线 ?牛帮下载app

Emperor’s Dragon Robe(Replica), Replica of Yongzheng Emperor’s (1678-1735) dragon robe, 2016, Silk, 98% pure gold threads ?China National Silk Museum

《文、明 》NO.2,王雷,2016-2017 ?牛帮下载app

Civilisation NO.2, Wang Lei, 2016-2017 ?China National Silk Museum

雁衔绶带锦袍,原物出土于内蒙古辽代契丹贵族代钦塔拉墓 ?牛帮下载app

Brocade Robe with Geese, Replica of an excavated robe from Daiqintala, Inner Mongolia ?China National Silk Museum

《丝绪》连衣裙,陈野槐,2009-2013 ?牛帮下载app

Silk Threads' Cocktail Dress, Grace Chen, 2009-2013 ?China National Silk Museum

彩绣大象帽,20世纪初 ?牛帮下载app

Embroidered Elephant Hat, early 20th century ?China National Silk Museum

短打上衣,1950年以前,丝绸,贝壳钮 ?牛帮下载app

Jacket with shell buttons, before 1950, Silk,  mother-of-pearl buttons ?China National Silk Museum

手绘敷彩纱(复制品),原物出土于湖南长沙马王堆一号墓 ?牛帮下载app

Painted Silk Gauze(Replica),Replica of silk gauze from Mawangdui tomb, Changsha, Hunan Province ?China National Silk Museum

清代绿地妆花蟒缎,18世纪,蚕丝 ?牛帮下载app

Robe material with Mang dragon (four-clawed dragon) , 18th century, Silk, Qing Dynasty ?China National Silk Museum

黄地吉祥宝相八达晕锦(复制品),明代1368-1644,2010年,蚕丝 ?牛帮下载app

Brocade with auspicious symbols, Replica of textile from Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), 2010, Silk ?China National Silk Museum

彩绣螃蟹围片,20世纪初,丝绸,金属线,棉线 ?牛帮下载app

Embroidered Bib with Crab,  early 20th century, Silk, metallic thread, cotton ?China National Silk Museum

彩绣兔子卡包,20世纪初,丝绸,金属线,印花棉底布 ?牛帮下载app

Embroidered Card Holder with Rabbits, early 20th century, Silk, metallic thread, printed cotton backing ?China National Silk Museum

绞缬图案连衣裙,2019 ?rechenberg art couture

Dress with Resist-Dyed Pattern, 2019 ?rechenberg art couture

裹身连衣裙,2013 ?rechenberg art couture

Wrap dress, 2013  ?rechenberg art couture

《蚕织图》,动画(片段),原图来自南宋《蚕织图》,楼璹(1090-1162) ?牛帮下载app

MULBERRY SILK, Animation(Clip), Han dscroll of Sericulture an d Weaving by Lou Shou(1090-1162), Southern Song  ?China National Silk Museum

小花楼织机模型,2000 ?牛帮下载app

Lesser Chinese Draw Loom Model, 2000  ?China National Silk Museum

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